Simon Brandi Mortensen from the Technical University of Denmark is presently working on an exciting project in Hawaii. The objective of the project is to study waves and wave induced currents at Waimea Bay on the island of Oahu, Hawaii, using a combination of advanced modelling technologies and field measurements. Waimea Bay is a famous spot for surfing and it is well known for its unique wave conditions and its dramatic surf zone dynamics.
Check out the location of the study area (assumes installation of Google Earth) by clicking here.
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Photos by Simon Brandi Mortensen |
Professor Kwok Cheung from the University of Hawaii has collected field data for many years at Waimea Bay and he has attempted to model the local conditions using simplified numerical models. In the present project the more advanced deterministic phase-resolving Boussinesq model MIKE 21 BW will be used. Also the phase-averaging model MIKE 21 Spectral Waves FM (flexible Mesh) will be used. Both modules are part of the MIKE 21 software package, which is recognised as a state-of-the art software package and is being used world-wide by consultants, authorities and universities for many years.
In addition a short field campaign will be set-up to measure additional wave conditions outside and inside the breaking zone at Waimea Bay. The field campaign was initiated 20 April 2006.
One of the main outcomes of the project is a calibrated wave model of Waimea Bay, which can simulate the wave transformation including wave breaking and the resulting wave induced currents in the bay. The results of calibration work, experiences with the model setup, model stability and accuracy etc will be presented and discussed in a coming newsletter (Part 2).
The project is supervised by Professor Per Madsen, Technical University of Denmark. Professor Kwok Cheung, University of Hawaii, and Henrik Kofoed-Hansen, DHI Water & Environment are co-supervisors.